Next up was the Louvre. Perhaps it was wishful thinking to enjoy a museum with young children, but Charlotte was really excited to see the Mona Lisa so we decided to give it a try.
The museum is part of a large palace.
As you get close to it and walk in, it becomes hard to imagine how anyone could have lived in such grandeur.
Then again, maybe people in some very poor parts of the world think the same about us. I suppose it is a matter of timing and perspective.
Recently in America for example, people have been pulling down any statue or flag that has to do with the Confederacy and the Civil War. There has been talk of altering the Jefferson Memorial because he was a slave owner. While I think that slavery is a dark stain on the history of anyone who practiced it as I find it evil and wrong, I don't think it fair to judge people in history based on current social thinking and morals. Yes, people made mistakes. Yes, slavery happened, but it's part of history. Are we to alter history just to make us feel better now? It does not change that it happened. But those are just my opinions and may not be shared by Jari...and they also have nothing to do with the Louvre other than to say it was once owned by a select group of people who lived in luxury while others did not. So perhaps it is fair game to put that here
Here is an attempt at a 360 view inside the first courtyard. The size of this building really was impressive.
And through the archway, you can see the iconic entrance to the Louvre.
And here we were. I was just a little excited to go in.
It was pretty clear that we were one of the very few visitors with children. Makes sense right? I mean who in their right mind would bring young children to an art museum...? Oh wait, we did :)
Hazel: Dad can I put my hand in the water?
Me: Sure, just roll up your sleeve so it does not get really wet ok?
*1 Minute Later*
Hazel: Dad, (while pouting) my sleeves are all wet.
Me: Sorry honey. I told you to roll them up.
Hazel: Yeah, it's just that... it's hard and I don't know how.
Me: (raising an eyebrow) Really? You don't know how? Who has been pushing your sleeves up when you wash you hands?
Hazel: Well, it's just that...I feel uncomfortable now.
After standing in line, orchestrating bathroom breaks and diaper changes (they have signs on all the bathrooms of changing tables but they are not easy to find. Turns out they are inside the handicap accessible stalls), we plunged in with goals to see the most famous art.
We asked the kids to pick out some things they really loved so we could take their pictures there and frame them. I think they were a little overwhelmed because they had a hard time picking things. But there were a few things that spoke to them.
I think that I loved the ceilings more than anything as the art found within the decorative crown molding as well as the paintings were just as amazing as anything else. Hazel agreed.
Jesus was a pervasive theme which makes sense as religion and the Catholic Church played such a central role as a benefactor and motivating feature at that time in history.
I really liked the benches they had there. Random? Yes, but it is true. They are carved out so you can just half sit on them while looking at art or the ceiling and not need to sit all the way. It encourages you to keep moving while enjoying the art.
More Ceiling
Confession time - I love yellow gold. So any time gold is painted on to something it stands out to me. A cartoon from my childhood showed Scrooge McDuck swimming in gold coins (see below) which always fascinated me for some reason. I sometimes joke with Jari that one day I would love to sit in at least a bath tub with gold coins. Of course it will never happen but one can dream.
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Ok back to the Louvre - but the brief time spent imaging swimming in gold was fun. Clearly I am still thinking about it. Louvre Fred! Louvre!
One of the long hallways of the palace serves as a wing in the museum. You could easily spend days here and not see everything.
30 minutes to Zachary was equal to days. The kids were SOOOO good the day before so it is not surprising he was not so good the next day.
Charlotte chose this one for its blues.
I thought this picture was strait when I took it. Oh well.
If I remember right (correct me if I am wrong mom), the blue pictured here was usually reserved for the Virgin Marry in art and thus is considered a sacred color.
After elbowing our way through a crowd of about 100 people we made our way to the front of the line to see the Mona Lisa!
Jari and I both spent a little time without our phone in front of our face to simply enjoy the painting. 77 x 53 cm in size, based in oil paint, this little picture by Leonardo Da Vinci really is remarkable. It is fun to see it in person and just ponder her smile. Yes we took photos here like everyone else but it struck Jari and I both as sad that people spend much of their time here with their phones trying to get a selfie rather than enjoy the actual art. A phenomenon of modern making I suppose.
Remember Zachary? We was pinching and causing all sorts of mischief at this point - until we found a picture he liked!
Saint Michael and the Dragon!
We rented an audioguide made by Nintendo which was kind of hard to use (impossible while juggling Zachary and Camille) so we would enter a painting number and let the girls take turns learning. Here is Hazel learning about "The Chase" - a painting depicting hunting between 1200-1500 I think.
Just like some cultures depict Christ with dark skin (African American congregations for example), I think this one was simply a representation of the times in that the body was so appealing to the artist that even Christ was painting near-nude.
In spite of the struggles, we did get to see some great art.
I really liked this one of Christ as a young man teaching in the temple.
While I don't speak French, my knowledge of Spanish allowed me to read about 25-50% of French when I know the context of what is being presented which helped me navigate and learn about the paintings.
How interesting is this depiction of David and Goliath? What is David wearing? I know he was a simple Shepard's boy but the hat with feather? I found this really funny.
It was around this point that an Indian couple (cannot remember where they were from, not India though) approached us with their young boy (16 months as of the day before the mother was quick to correct the father, Not 15 months!) and commented on how impressed they were we were daring to take so many kids out in public. They had their hands full with one and could not imagine four. The labeled us as an "inspiration" which made both Jari and I smile as we felt anything but inspiring. But hey, glad our outing could inspire others to take their kids with them. It is possible that we possessed 50% of all kids under age 5 at the Louvre that day.
Random war painting between pictures of Christ
We did spend a large amount of time explaining the reason for nakedness in all the paintings.
On our way to lunch we came across this window and saw the driveway that serviced carriages a long time ago. It made the time of the palace become real to me and I imagined people pulling up and getting out dressed elegantly ready for a ball.
I was born in the year of the Pig/Bore on the Chinese/Korean Zodiac so any time I find a pig I feel at home :)
Last few items while moving to lunch. Greek carvings of athletic feats
No joke, we spent nearly twice on lunch as we did to get into the Louvre, mostly because entrance for the kids was free. But 1 large salad, 1 medium salad, 1 slice of Pizza, a grilled cheese, a small sandwich, and 2 drinks was about 50 Euro.
A well-fed child is a happy child.
On to Greek statues!
The Venus De Milo! So why the terrible picture (off to the side and on an angle)?
Because we were fighting large groups of Asians, that's why. Don't get me wrong, having lived in Korea we understand and love the culture better than most Americans but when it comes to getting what they want, they don't hold back.
A little sisterly love at the Venus de Milo.
Jari and I swapped kids and she took Zachary on an educational tour. He did really well and enjoyed talking with her about the statues.
Like the missing heads
Oh no!
'It got chopped off' = Funny.
Zeus!
This large basin is often pictured on the internet so I was happy to have found it.
On our way to see Egyptian Antiquities.
I convinced Zachary to ride my shoulders - then we got in trouble. Charlotte was concerned about why I would break the rules. I tried to explain I did not know that was a rule but I am not sure she was convinced. I am often a rebel without a cause in her eyes.
This kids were done, so on our way out we happened by what I thought was a replication of a castle moat (we would be walking in the water) but then found out this is the original foundation of the fortress upon which the Louvre was built!
You can see here what it looked like a long time ago before the palace was built. The signs explained that once the wall to the city was built outward, the castle no longer needed to serve as a strong point and part of the defensive wall. They they built the castle higher and added open windows and made it a palace. It was in the 1700's that it expanded to include what it looks like today.
And on our way up the stairs, he gave way to the darkness.
Jari: Guess how long we spent at the Louvre? I think it was a long time, close to 4 hours I think.
Charlotte: No not that long, only like 2 hours and 15 minutes
Hazel: I think short like 1 hour and 2 minutes
Fred: (looking at my watch) 5 Hours! Mom is right like usual.
Charlotte: Speechless as she looks at Jari and is no doubt not happy she was wrong.
But we really did it! 5 hours in the Louvre with 4 young kids!
After leaving the Louvre in the most convoluted way possible (we could only find our way to the metro but we did not want the metro so followed signs to an exit and soon found ourselves all alone which is usually not a good sign. We ended up at a glass door that was locked. Gratefully there was a guard there with a key who let us out.
We made our way towards the bus area when a Pedaler of Paris (as he called himself) solicited our business. He was an American who had lived in Paris for years doing odd jobs and the idea of riding on a bike to the Eiffel Tower sounded great. The asking price was 20 Euro which was pricey but hey it was simple and unique so we took him up on it.
He gave us a talking tour of the parts of Paris we were seeing. He was really nice guy. Some sites of the city:
He dropped us off on the "Garden Side" of the Eiffel tower which was great as there were fewer people over there, and warned us against the young ladies asking us to sign a petition etc and then he was off. Thanks for the lift friend.
And here we are at the Eiffel Tower!
Check off the bucket list.
When we arrived, we found a spot of grass and put Camille down for a moment of freedom. Within 10 seconds of freedom and nice couple and their son (this time the son was 25 years old, and yes they were all from India, a theme for the day) came over to see our family and specifically our baby. Camille is a very calm baby but they did not know that. They asked to hold her and though we were nervous about this random family holding our child but we rolled with it. They then started commenting how most children are not calm with strangers so it must be "destiny" that brought us together at that time. They then immediately invited us to visit them in Delhi India. They would pick us up at the airport, provide a home for us and show us around the area. I was thrilled at the idea, Jari I think less so. I mean who plans a vacation to India with strangers? Apparently I do because I shared my email address with them...
I have been to Paris before. When I graduated from High School I traveled with the Utah Ambassadors of Music and we sang our way through Europe. At that time (before 911 and the uptick in terrorism activity world wide) I was able to walk right up to the tower. Now you have to go through security like you are going to the Air Port. It is a sad world we live in.
The kids wanted to go to the top but at a price of 18 Euro each for Jari and I, and 11 Euro for each kid, AND the fact that the kids were largely unimpressed with the views from both Seoul and Tokyo Tower, we decided against it and pushed on.
Just north of the Eiffel Tower, we found some of the best soft-serve ice creams I have tasted. Not cheap (3.50 Euro a piece!) but well worth it.
Hazel is so good to share. She is loving and kind - a real keeper.
Sweetened by ice cream we took some pictures of ourselves and the kids.
Each wanted their own picture:
OK maybe not Camille but we could not resist.
As we made our way towards the Arc de Triomphe there is a nice overlook of the tower and there were some random guys dancing there for people.
A short walk later we found the Arc.
Hard to get a picture by myself
The cross walk sign was green but I figured it was worth stopping and missing it for the sake of the picture.
To get to the middle you go underground through a tunnel.
I think it was free to just see the Arc but I think we accidentally went in through the exit but no one said anything (the Pedaler mentioned the lack of security in France when they are trying to be secure). Again, you can pay a few Euro to go up on top but it was 6:30 pm at this point and the kids were getting hungry.
We happened to show up at the right time for a ceremony honoring fallen soldiers. Could not see much but it was nice.
Yes, even on the Arc de Triomphe there are naked people.
I don't know what I was expecting but it seemed bigger than I thought it would be. Here are the kids in pink at the base of the Arc
We shot home on the metro and ate at the Brazilian restaurant next to our apartment. I don't think they were accustomed to children coming to eat but they did great. Kind of pricey but the food was amazing. Charlotte seems perpetually unimpressed by some things.
Jari was the winner that night with Goat, rice, veggies and plantains. So delicious. The rest of us got some pork. Jari took the kids up to get ready for bed and the owner took his time bringing me the check... I asked a few times but he wanted me to wait for the night entertainment (a lady playing the acoustic guitar and singing, in French of course). I won't lie, she sounded great, but it was hard to enjoy knowing Jari was struggling with exhausted kids.
In the end I made it home and all was well. Another successful day.
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