It is hard to know what to say when I talk about trail running. Three or so years ago when I discovered that people ran more than the marathon distance I was stuck with a sense of wonder and fascination. It became clear as I watched one YouTube video after another that unless you are an elite athlete, it was more like trail speed hiking than running once you attempted a certain distance. I was thrilled to move to Europe and have a chance to run in Switzerland or France or anywhere in the Alps.
However, the first 1.5 years I spent trying to rehab from some hip injuries that even today I struggle with. I signed up for several runs that I had to no-show due to these injuries. But a year ago this fall I bought a mountain bike and this combined with time on the elliptical and physical therapy I slowly regained my ability to run and hike.
This summer has been marvelous. Not only because my health and strength have fully recovered but because it has recovered just enough to allow me to complete a few runs which were very memorable. This is the report on run #4: Oman by UTMB
UTMB: Ultra Trail Mont Blanc is a race held in France that runs for 160 Km through Switzerland and Italy and is considered the apex of trail running in Europe. Talented men and women from all over the world come and compete and it is always fun to see who wins each year. Over the past few years, the organizers have created new runs around the world which offer a variation in culture and terrain. This year they hosted the first 50 Km version of a race in Oman. From the time I read over the website and considered it, I was in.
One issue was that I am in the military and in order to travel to Oman I had to have a travel buddy. After soliciting all the runners I knew I finally found a coworker willing to train and come along.
I was worried about the heat as the race was over Thanksgiving and while it is 30-40 degrees F in Germany, it was projected to be 80 degrees F in Muscat, Oman. Above is a photo of the public bathing stream where they have booths set up over the top of the stream so you can sit in the water and bathe.
One little problem - our luggage did not arrive from Frankfurt... We arrived with 1 day of lead time and even though they said they would deliver it the next night, I was worried they would not (spoiler alert, I ran the race). After investing months of training and more money than I want to admit (gear, flights, hotel, bus, food for the trail, etc) the idea of missing out was devastating. But knowing I could not control anything we decided to check out the local town of Nizwa.
The above photo was where they used to drop rocks on people entering the fort in the town.
The fort was rebuilt in the 1600-1700s with modern artillery in mind.
It is built in a large oval shape with numerous inlets to allow riflemen to take up their post and defend the fort
A view of the palace of sorts next to the fort
An attempt at a panorama shot with my camera
In the back, they had a small garden where we just went and relaxed for a while. No phones in hand we just chatted about a number of topics while the local Omani families strolled by. One of them stopped and listened to us for a moment and smiled and said 'You two are Omani already. Relaxing in the shade without any phones in your hands and just talking about life!' I will admit it was rather relaxing and I felt no need to connect to the internet when what I was experiencing right then and there was worth enjoying.
After we left the fort we wandered around for a bit seeing remains of the older city
Visitors are allowed to visit inside the Mosque on certain days and times but we missed that window.
Lovely buildings though
After dinner we found a taxi to take us back to the hotel where I spent time reading and Tim (my travel buddy) doing homework. I waited anxiously for the 8 o'clock hour and then called the Airport. They informed me my luggage had arrived but they were not sure about delivery (they promised they would deliver when I talked to them the night before). After making multiple calls I finally received the news that it was too late in the evening and they would not be delivering our luggage until the next morning. When I explained that it had equipment for a trip here and we were leaving at 4 am and begging them to bring it they finally relented and brought our luggage.
Around midnight it arrived, I paid the delivery man a big tip and we decided to pack our bags.
My mind was awake and I was full of excitement for the next morning and I finally fell asleep at 2:30 am. 1 hour later we were up and getting ready.
The race started in a town 1.5 hours away by bus.
We had a long list of mandatory gear that many people in the 50 Km distance clearly had ditched. The 160 Km and 130 Km races started the day prior.
Like all races, it started with lots of energy and a pace that was way too fast. But it was flat and in town so we joined in the quick pace.
Soon we found ourselves moving uphill, and this did not change for the first 25 Km...
Except for this small little valley that made me want to go camping :)
The landscape was fascinated. Yes, it was dry and warm but I could see that in the very distant past there was once a seafloor with fossils we ran on. This made the terrain very rocky and unforgiving. I tripped once early on and tore up my hands. After that, I slowed my pace and lifted my step.
Here are some huts which belong to the local goat herders.
There was plenty of rock hopping.
And the terrain was not only an incline but often at a leftward or rightward angle. Honestly, this was exhausting.
These little green dots served to guide us along the trail. Most of the time the trial was well marked
This was such a great moment of the race. This area (don't remember the name in local naming) is referred to as the 'Grand Canyon of Oman'
Stunning views
More and more rocks, all on an angle
Some local goats
Near the end of the race, we ran through this fantastic town with a series of water canals bringing life to the area. It gave me a mental boost that made me pick up the pace in a way that I would later regret
But look at this view! if only photos could do it justice.
And here I am at 50 km (2 from the end) and out of steam. I am sure I did not have enough to drink (even though I had drunk at least 7-8 L of water/electrolyte fluid) and did not have enough salt for this environment. My legs started to seize up and I ended up slowly lowering myself to the ground and just laid there while looking down at the finish line and feeling my legs spasm in my calves and quads. I wanted to cry. And while several choice words came to mind all I could do is laugh and think, "Well, I still have 4 hours to the cut off so maybe if I just sit here for a while I can slowly make my way down." After about 10 minutes I forced myself to stand and slowly waddled down the mountain and then walked/jogged to the end.
Hearing my name at the end was so thrilling! People were cheering and even though I was hurting I was so happy that I had just completed the race.
9 Hours 43 Minutes, 90th place overall.
Not too shabby considering I did not train like I should have.
The food at the end was simple but great. I think I ate 3 plates of rice and pizza.
I had some time to kill so I got a massage and hung out until Tim came through
At 12 hrs and 15 minutes, Tim came through the finish line! I was worried he was not going to make it so when he rolled through I was SO happy. What was heartbreaking was hearing the countdown to the 13th hour and cut-off time and seeing the sting of headlamps coming down the mountain (if you look close you can see them). All those folks 2 Km from the end. They would finish the course but be listed as having not completed it :(
The next morning we slept in, then went on a walk to a clothing store for kids (according to google maps) and this is what we found. So funny. Not the first time google maps has failed me.
After riding the bus to the Airport and meeting some cool people on the bus who ran the 130 Km and 160 Km races we were picked up by a local tour guide. He took us to the Grand Mosque ...
Then to a private beach for employees of the state oil company
We had a great time. The food was great, and company as well. Our tour guide brought a friend named Mohammad who wanted to talk politics. We danced around the topic of us being associated with the military the entire night and never once discussed it. We simply stated we worked for a medical clinic in Germany with mostly American patients.
A quick trip to the night market where we picked up a soccer uniform for Zach and a shawl for Jari. I did not find anything I liked for the girls...
Then drove past the Sultan's Palace.
Pistachio Ice Cream. A good way to end the night.
If anyone ever reads this post, congrats on finishing something nearly as painful as the run itself ;)
On a personal note, not only was it fun but I met some fantastic people and gained a love for an area of the world and a people that I never thought I would. Oman was a great country and I respect the people that live there.
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